 Copyright MMXII, DE Taylor. All Rights Reserved.
If you are skipping deep treating your hair, you are likely not seeing the kind of results you hope for. Deep treating the hair simply refers to the use of deep conditioners or oils that are used for a prolonged period on the hair. Standard conditioners are not deep treatments. They are formulated to lubricate not penetrate, although oils and other additives that have penetrating abilities can be added. When looking for products to use as deep treatments, look for the words "deep," "intensive" or "penetrating." These products are formulated to travel deep into the hair shaft and attach themselves to weakened or compromised areas along the hair strand. While nothing can regrow damaged areas, deep treatments can go a long way toward enhancing elasticity and stopping further protein loss. While many such treatments' instructions suggest that you leave them on for 3-5 minutes, most treatments are greatly enhanced by prolonged contact with the hair strand. 30 minutes to an hour or longer is advised. When it comes to deep treating the hair, more is better. More time and more contact are advisable. Always make sure and section the hair so that each and every strand is getting saturated with the treatment. Leaving a treatment on overnight is a wonderful method to use, as is incorporating a heating cap or overhead dryer. Heat in this instance is therapeutic, because it causes the hair shaft to relax and the cuticle to raise - ensuring maximum penetration of lubricants, moisture and nutrients to troubled areas. Keep in mind that commercial treatments are not the only way to go. Natural oils, honey, eggs and herbs such as henna and cassia make superb deep treatments. Natural oils and additives should generally be used as a "pre-poo" or pre-shampoo treatments, as they need to be thoroughly cleansed from strands. Some wonderful oils to use as pre-poos are olive and coconut. Their molecular structure is clinically proven to easily penetrate the hair shaft and attach itself to compromised areas - helping to stop protein loss. Commercial products can be used as pre-poos as well - just make sure that you are using a conditioner for moisturization after shampooing them out. Deep treatments should be used on a weekly
basis to gain maximum benefits. With consistency, you'll begin to see the results you've been longing for!
 Copyright MMXII, DE Taylor. All Rights Reserved.
Shedding like an alpaca? Floor covered in hair every time you comb? You might be a victim of excessive shedding. Shedding refers to the loss of the entire hair strand - root ball included. It's not to be confused with breakage which is another subject altogether. Broken hairs are often short and do not have the root ball attached. If you run your fingers along a shed hair, when you get to the end you will feel a raised, hardened little sphere which is the root ball. Hairs that do not have this are breakage. Shedding is totally normal. Adult heads can shed upwards of 100 hairs per day on average. There is no reason to be alarmed with shed hairs - it is the follicle's way of clearing that space for a brand new strand to form. Remember, we are animals and animals shed their coats - it's a part of nature. Excessive shedding includes shedding too many hairs every day or shedding large numbers of strands continuously. Shedding is cyclical. There are certain seasons and certain times of the month when shedding might be increased. There should be an ebb and flow to shedding. It should not be full bore at all times, otherwise we'd all go bald. If you are noticing what seems to be excessive shedding, there are some remedies that have worked very well for scores of heads. Garlic shampoo used on a regular basis has shown great promise in reducing excessive shedding. Simply substitute garlic shampoo for your regular shampoo until symptoms subside then add it back in as needed. Black tea is also effective against excessive shedding. Make a tincture of strong black tea and spray it on the scalp weekly after shampooing and conditioning. Do not rinse. Finally, it must be said that some instances of excessive or chronic shedding are actually an indication of underlying health problems and should be assessed by a doctor. If you feel you fall into this category, I would advise that you consult a physician immediately.
 Copyright MMXII, DE Taylor. All Rights Reserved.
Ever wonder why there are little broken hairs at your crown or nape? Or why you have layers but have never had a layered haircut? Pattern breakage could be the culprit. Pattern breakage refers to breakage that occurs from repeat stress on a given area. Any woman who has worn the same ponytail for years on end is probably quite familiar with it. But ponytail holders are not the only offenders. Barrettes, accessories, clip-ins, weaves, wigs and hair bands can all lead to pattern breakage if worn in the same way over and over. Even wrapping the hair or parting it in the same place for months on end can lead to repeat stress and rubbing which can lead to breakage. Another big offender is braids. Braids left in too long can lead to weak points along the strand. The bent areas can lead to a sort of hinged effect that leaves the hair compromised especially if they are too tight. The number one defense against pattern breakage is simple: switch it up! A good ground rule is to alter your style every couple of days. Switch from a side part to a center part, wear your hair down instead of bunned, and alternate your overnight sets. Avoid leaving braids in too long. For accessories always choose soft fabric or silk hair ties, and rub a little oil or conditioner on accessory clips prior to application.
 Hair, on average, grows 1/2 inch per month, however we all know that girl whose hair appears to grow an inch or more. Or the girl whose teeny weeny afro does not appear to budge. There are a number of factors that contribute to growth rates in hair. One difference you might notice in these two ladies is that one has a straighter hair type while the other's hair type is super coiled. Hair that is emerging from the follicle in a straight line has a much quicker path than hair that is emerging coiled. This difference in texture can also lead to a syndrome that I call "perceived growth." Ie., it might look like the TWA is not growing, but when stretched out you'll find that it is growing just fine but simply coiling back on itself, appearing to remain compact and shorter. Other factors in growth rate include genetics, diet, and chemical or physical trauma to the scalp. While 1/2 inch is a known average, growth can skew above that or below that depending on genetics. If your mother's hair grows like a weed there's a possibility that yours does too. With regard to diet and exercise, the scalp and follicles are alive and need nutrients to thrive. If you are dumping junk food, sodas and Mickey D's into your system every day you can rest assured that your body's functions, including hair growth, are not optimized. A diet rich in fruits, vegetables, lean protein and omega-3's is your best bet to optimize growth rates. Chemical and physical trauma to the scalp can also inhibit or even halt hair growth. Chemical burns from relaxers can damage and/or seal over follicles and should be seriously avoided. On relaxer day the scalp should be based with petroleum jelly and the relaxer solution should never be pressed into the scalp during smoothing. Timing should be strictly monitored and any sensation past tingling is an absolute no-no. Physical trauma to the scalp includes suffocation from continuous wigs and weaves and pulling trauma from too tight tracks and braids. These situations should be avoided at all cost if you wish to maximize growth. While there is no topical solution that is proven to enhance growth rates, scalp massage and rosemary and peppermint oils are all effective in stimulating the follicle. Supplementation can be hit or miss but many women are having success with vitamins such as Hairfinity or the supplements biotin and MSM. When it comes to growth rates there is no magic bullet, so our best bet is to focus on length retention by avoiding damaging practices and maintaining unwaivering self care.
 1. Ditch the heat! Each pass burns away essential protein, moisture and lipids and compromises hair health.
2. Co-wash mid-week for added moisturization.
3. Eliminate drying sulfates - use a sulfate-free shampoo or cleansing bar.
4. Drink water daily - hair health and moisturization begins on the inside.
5. Eat a healthy diet - nutrients fuel hair health.
6. Put down the combs and brushes - practice low manipulation as often as possible.
7. Moisturize and seal hair as needed.
8. Deep condition weekly - it aids hair flexibility which cuts down on breakage.
9. Practice protective styling frequently - keep ends protected as much as possible.
10. Incorporate coconut oil into your regimen - this wonder oil is proven to help stop protein loss in damaged hair.
 Copyright MMXII, DE Taylor. All Rights Reserved.
It seems that everyone is searching for a magic hair growth pill! I get this question on a daily basis: do supplements really work? The answer is yes, supplementation can definitely enhance hair growth. Hair growth is a function of internal processes - it starts on the inside. I don't know a single American who is getting all of their dietary needs met by diet alone. On that count alone supplementation can enhance hair growth. Supplements can provide the nutrients that fuel hair growth in a diet that is otherwise lacking. Now can supplements give you fairy tale hair lengths overnight? NO they do not and anyone telling you that is selling snake oil. The most supplements can do is provide nutritional enhancement to the bodies existing functions, so that what was producing at minimal levels now has the chance to produce at more optimimum levels. The difference is small but definitely noticeable. One supplement that has shown promise in studies is Biotin. I personally have taken Biotin for years. In one study, minks that were fed Biotin showed improvement in growth rate, thickness and color retention. So not only did their pelts grow faster and thicker but they also stayed black or greyed at a slower rate than their counterparts who were not fed Biotin! Biotin should be started at 1,000 mcg and increased gradually to 5,000 mcg for maximum efficacy. Some other supplements that have shown promise are MSM, Sulfur and Folic Acid. While many women pick and choose between supplements, one excellent way to boost your intake is by choosing a supplement that is geared toward hair, skin and nails. That way you don't have to guess about quantities. One excellent hair supplement that many women have had incredible results with is Hairfinity. You can also visit your local drugstore and peruse different hair skin and nails formulas.
 Copyright MMXI, DE Taylor. All Rights Reserved.
I have to admit here that I am a member of the tangled ends club. My ends will tangle at the drop of a hat. Also, the longer your hair gets, the more you will have to watch out for this. It seems that one day the comb glides through effortlessly and the next day you're hearing pops and snaps. The number one thing you can do to combat this problem is to experiment with moisturization. Try different emollient products on your ends and keep a log of what works and what made it worse. If you have a particularly bad episode, think over what you did to your hair that day or the day before that could have caused it. After tracking my tangles I found that they are invariably linked to dryness. On days where I have used a sulfated shampoo, didn't use moisturizer when necessary or failed to properly lubricate, tangles are sure to follow. Some things that have worked for me are: 1. Coconut oil - when used to seal in moisture it deeply lubricates and adds slip. 2. Glycerin - either add it to your moisturizer or use a product such as S-Curl to lightly spritz ends before detangling. 3. Detanglers - invest in a detangling product to have on hand when knots and tangles form. Spritz ends as needed to keep them detangled. 4. Conditioner - add back a dollop of conditioner to ends after shampooing or co-washing. Do not rinse. This really helps maintain lubrication and strand separation.
 Copyright MMXI, DE Taylor. All Rights Reserved.
Although winter weather can take a toll on your hair there are a few simple things you can add to your regimen to combat winter hair problems. Put the brakes on shampoo: shampoo is extremely drying. That can be a big problem for winter hair which is already prone to dryness. Switch to co-washing for the bulk of the month with one or two shampoo uses to clarify. Add greenhousing to tackle dryness: make it a habit of putting on a plastic cap whenever you are just hanging around the house. You can even sleep in one under a satin bonnet. Greenhousing raises natural moisture levels and allows your natural oils to incubate under the cap which fights winter dryness and aids true moisturization. Add deep oiling for increased lubrication: incorporate a deep penetrating oil such as coconut into your winter regimen. It is truly softening and aids in the retention of your hair's natural proteins. As a sealant it really boosts lubrication because it penetrates deeply and forces the water in your moisturizer deep into the cortex. Pull out that bottle of glycerin: add a small amount of vegetable glycerin to your moisturizer. Vegetable glycerin is a natural humectant - it binds itself to the moisture in the air which leads to added moisturization. Incorporate silk: line rough wool hats and collars with silk scarves. Not only are winter fabrics rough on hair, they can also zap moisture. Protect ends from harsh cold: increase your protective styling. Bathe your ends in a moisturizer and sealant every day and tuck them away in an elegant protective style. With just a few tweaks to your normal regi you'll survive winter and come out looking like a fox next spring!
 Copyright MMXI, DE Taylor. All Rights Reserved.
If I've heard it once I've heard it a thousand times: "you have to trim your hair regularly to make it grow." I don't know who started this one but let me say it could not be further from the truth. Cutting hair does not make it grow. Hair grows from the scalp not the ends. If cutting makes your hair grow we could all trim our way to hip length in no time right? The truth is that a survey of chicas who have achieved BSL or longer would reveal that they actually keep the scissors at bay and visits to clip-happy stylists are an absolute no-no. The way to long hair is by keeping it on your head. There is no reason to be cutting on hair that is split-free with healthy ends. Retention is the key word in the phrase 'length retention.' The goal is to retain the length you have worked so hard for. Cutting it away prematurely is simply not necessary. There are legitimate reasons to trim hair. Heat-damaged hair that has ragged, see-through ends with splits should be trimmed so that the splits don't continue up the shaft. Trimming is also good if you have layers or a style you wish to maintain. If your eye is on waist length and you have healthy ends, regular trims are doing you no favors. You are just throwing your progress in the hair bin. For those of you with length in mind practices such as dusting and search-and-destroy are your best bets. Dusting is simply cutting away a miniscule amount (1/8 inch) from ends throughout the entire head - there should be no detectable loss of length. Search and destroy involves examining ends for splits and cutting away just the splits that are found. This should be done as needed. No schedule necessary. In fact scheduling monthly trims is a sure fire way to find yourself wondering why you can't get past a certain length. Especially if you are entrusting your hair to a stylist who may be cutting away too much hair. Once a goal length is achieved then trims can be scheduled as needed to maintain that length and shape the hair to your liking.
 Copyright MMXI, DE Taylor. All Rights Reserved
During my time in the do-it-yourself trenches I have found that droves of women systematically neglect caring for one of the most important areas of the hair: their nape. Nape care is extremely important for one reason: it's the nape hair that fills in back length and detracts from that see-through look. If you are neglecting your nape you might find that the hair there is super short and not filled in. If you begin to care for the nape area on a regular basis you will start to see that area fill in and lend much-needed thickness. Normal moisturizing and sealing often doesn't address the nape area or only partially treats it. We have to make a specific effort to ensure that each strand in that area is fully treated. The good thing is that nape care need not be difficult or tedious. A little special care just once a week can start to turn things around. Here is a simple nape care routine. To make it easy to remember simply schedule it for the same day that you shampoo and deep condition.
✿ Lift the hair in back and horizontally (ear to ear) part off 2-3 inches of the nape area. Pin other hair out of the way.
✿ If hair is dry spritz with a little water or rosewater to pre-moisturize.
✿ Massage a few drops of castor or vitamin E oil into the nape area scalp.
✿ Apply a moisturizer of your choice from root to tip.
✿ Seal the area with an oil of your choice.
✿ Roll the nape hair into a loose bantu (if it's long enough).
✿ Tie a silk scarf around the head so the area can incubate. Repeat weekly.
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