Deep treatments

11/02/2012

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Guthy Renker Corporation
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Copyright MMXII, DE Taylor.  All Rights Reserved.
If you are skipping deep treating your hair, you are likely not seeing the kind of results you hope for.  Deep treating the hair simply refers to the use of deep conditioners or oils that are used for a prolonged period on the hair.  Standard conditioners are not deep treatments.  They are formulated to lubricate not penetrate, although oils and other additives that have penetrating abilities can be added.  When looking for products to use as deep treatments, look for the words "deep," "intensive" or "penetrating."  These products are formulated to travel deep into the hair shaft and attach themselves to weakened or compromised areas along the hair strand.  While nothing can regrow damaged areas, deep treatments can go a long way toward enhancing elasticity and stopping further protein loss.  While many such treatments' instructions suggest that you leave them on for 3-5 minutes, most treatments are greatly enhanced by prolonged contact with the hair strand.  30 minutes to an hour or longer is advised.  When it comes to deep treating the hair, more is better.  More time and more contact are advisable.  Always make sure and section the hair so that each and every strand is getting saturated with the treatment.  Leaving a treatment on overnight is a wonderful method to use, as is incorporating a heating cap or overhead dryer.  Heat in this instance is therapeutic, because it causes the hair shaft to relax and the cuticle to raise - ensuring maximum penetration of lubricants, moisture and nutrients to troubled areas.  Keep in mind that commercial treatments are not the only way to go.  Natural oils, honey, eggs and herbs such as henna and cassia make superb deep treatments.  Natural oils and additives should generally be used as a "pre-poo" or pre-shampoo treatments, as they need to be thoroughly cleansed from strands.  Some wonderful oils to use as pre-poos are olive and coconut.  Their molecular structure is clinically proven to easily penetrate the hair shaft and attach itself to compromised areas -  helping to stop protein loss.  Commercial products can be used as pre-poos as well - just make sure that you are using a conditioner for moisturization after shampooing them out.  Deep treatments should be used on a weekly
basis to gain maximum benefits.  With consistency, you'll begin to see the results you've been longing for!
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TOP TEN TIPS FOR HEALTHY HAIR

03/01/2012

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BH Cosmetics-Sale
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1.  Ditch the heat!  Each pass burns away essential protein, moisture and lipids and compromises hair health.

2.  Co-wash mid-week for added moisturization.

3.  Eliminate drying sulfates - use a sulfate-free shampoo or cleansing bar.

4.  Drink water daily - hair health and moisturization begins on the inside.

5.  Eat a healthy diet - nutrients fuel hair health.

6.  Put down the combs and brushes - practice low manipulation as often as possible.

7.  Moisturize and seal hair as needed.

8.  Deep condition weekly - it aids hair flexibility which cuts down on breakage.

9.  Practice protective styling frequently - keep ends protected as much as possible.

10.  Incorporate coconut oil into your regimen - this wonder  oil is proven to help stop protein loss in damaged hair.

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WINTER HAIR CARE

12/01/2011

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BH Cosmetics- Pro Palette Builder
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Copyright MMXI, DE Taylor.  All Rights Reserved.
Although winter weather can take a toll on your hair there are a few simple things you can add to your regimen to combat winter hair problems.  Put the brakes on shampoo:  shampoo is extremely drying.  That can be a big problem for winter hair which is already prone to dryness.  Switch to co-washing for the bulk of the month with one or two shampoo uses to clarify.  Add greenhousing to tackle dryness:  make it a habit of putting on a plastic cap whenever you are just hanging around the house.  You can even sleep in one under a satin bonnet.  Greenhousing raises natural moisture levels and allows your natural oils to incubate under the cap which fights winter dryness and aids true moisturization.  Add deep oiling for increased lubrication:  incorporate a deep penetrating oil such as coconut into your winter regimen.  It is truly softening and aids in the retention of your hair's natural proteins.  As a sealant it really boosts lubrication because it penetrates deeply and forces the water in your moisturizer deep into the cortex.  Pull out that bottle of glycerin:  add a small amount of vegetable glycerin to your moisturizer.  Vegetable glycerin is a natural humectant - it binds itself to the moisture in the air which leads to added moisturization.  Incorporate silk:  line rough wool hats and collars with silk scarves.  Not only are winter fabrics rough on hair, they can also zap moisture.  Protect ends from harsh cold:  increase your protective styling.  Bathe your ends in a moisturizer and sealant every day and tuck them away in an elegant protective style.  With just a few tweaks to your normal regi you'll survive winter and come out looking like a fox next spring!
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NAPE CARE

10/01/2011

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Afterglow Cosmetics, Inc
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Copyright MMXI, DE Taylor.  All Rights Reserved
During my time in the do-it-yourself trenches I have found that droves of women systematically neglect caring for one of the most important areas of the hair:  their nape.  Nape care is extremely important for one reason:  it's the nape hair that fills in back length and detracts from that see-through look.  If you are neglecting your nape you might find that the hair there is super short and not filled in.  If you begin to care for the nape area on a regular basis you will start to see that area fill in and lend much-needed thickness.  Normal moisturizing and sealing often doesn't address the nape area or only partially treats it.  We have to make a specific effort to ensure that each strand in that area is fully treated.  The good thing is that nape care need not be difficult or tedious.  A little special care just once a week can start to turn things around.  Here is a simple nape care routine.  To make it easy to remember simply schedule it for the same day that you shampoo and deep condition. 
✿  Lift the hair in back and horizontally (ear to ear) part off 2-3 inches  of the nape area.  Pin other hair out of the way.
✿  If hair is dry spritz with a little water or rosewater to pre-moisturize.
✿  Massage a few drops of castor or vitamin E oil into the nape area scalp.
✿  Apply a moisturizer of your choice from root to tip.
✿  Seal the area with an oil of your choice.
✿  Roll the nape hair into a loose bantu (if it's long enough).
✿  Tie a silk scarf around the head so the area can incubate.  Repeat weekly.
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CO-WASHING 101

09/01/2011

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Summer Bundle Discount - Save 30%
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Copyright MMXI, DE Taylor.  All Rights Reserved.
Co-washing is simply using conditioner instead of shampoo to wash the hair.  Instead of the heavy-duty stripping that shampoo can do, your strands are left soft and moist.  If you are a frequent exerciser like Tressbuzz, co-washing is probably your BFF.  It allows you to clean away all the drying sodium while leaving the hair moisturized and flowing.  These are some simple guidelines to follow for those just starting out with co-washing.  Once you have the basics down you can begin tweaking your methods and formulas.

1.  Throw a co-wash into your regimen mid-week.  It does much to re-moisturize dry hair and soften new growth.
2.  Do not co-wash frequently with a protein-based conditioner.  This will lead to hard hair and unsuccessful cowashes.  Choose a moisturizing conditioner free of protein for softest results.
3.  Wet hair thoroughly with very warm water prior to applying conditioner.  This opens the cuticle to receive the emollients and nutrients.
4.  After wetting hair, apply conditioner as the first thing you do in shower.  This will give it time to go to work as you finish showering.  Apply to ends first then work your way toward the roots.
5.  Gently massage the conditioner throughout the hair to loosen dirt and debris.  Do not pile the hair on top of the head and scrub away at it - this will cause tangles and knots.
6.  Add in a quick scalp massage.  It invigorates the hair follicles and promotes growth.
7.  Once hair is saturated with conditioner put a plastic cap on and continue your other tasks such as shaving, loofah, brushing your teeth, etc.
8.  Rinsing the conditioner out should be the last thing that you do.  Try a slightly cooler rinse to seal in moisture and shine.
9.  For super-dry tresses add back in a tiny amount of moisturizing conditioner, focusing on ends.
10.  For maximum moisture retention, moisturize and seal in-shower.  This seals in the most moisture and nutrients before they have a chance to evaporate away.
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PROTEIN OVERLOAD

06/01/2011

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One of the most frequent hair afflictions I encounter among women is protein overload.  The rise of products such as Aphogee and Brazilian Keratin that promise miraculous hair transformation have birthed protein mania among consumers and manufacturers.  Recently I was reviewing ingredient labels for product reviews and found brands (Tresemme for instance) that have protein in each and every formula.  (I finally realized why Tresemme never worked for me...)  Make no mistake:  hair is protein and protein can do much to strengthen and fortify strands, however protein formation starts on the inside and the American diet is hardly protein deficient.  In fact the very best way to fortify strands is by diet - from the inside out.  Also keep in mind that coconut oil applied to strands has been scientifically shown to help halt protein loss.  Protein loss in the cortical structure is most commonly due to heat tools and chemical use.  The more damaged the hair is the more protein loss there is.  Which leads to the need for topical protein in hair care.  But take it too far and you will find yourself in overload - hard, brittle, breaking strands - the opposite of what you're going for!  You will know when you have crossed the protein threshhold.  Your hair will be motionless, stiff and brittle and you will see short hairs on the sink.  Another telltale sign is hair that will not moisturize.  Check those ingredient lists (see my article on HIDDEN PROTEINS to get started).  Once you're in overload it can be a bear to get rid of.  If you should go into overload always have an uber moisturizing deep conditioner (protein free) on hand to combat it. 

Moisturizers, cowashes and leave-ins - things that are used frequently - are best kept in the moisturizing category.  That way you can isolate and track protein application and avoid overload.  Tressbuzz keeps a log of hard protein use and isolates protein treatments to the last Monday of the month to assure strict controls.  Protein/Moisture balance can be difficult to control when each and every product in a regimen has protein.  A good rule of thumb is to isolate your hard protein (Aphogee, egg, animal proteins, etc.) treatments to once a month then bump up with a light protein leave-in (Keratin Mist, etc.) as needed.  Please note that this is meant as a guideline.  You must always remember to do what your hair is telling you to do at the moment.  Once strength is achieved moisturization must follow.  Never apply protein without a moisturizing counterbalance.  The best bet for balanced hair is to take control of protein before it takes control of you!

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