PROTEIN-FREE CONDITIONERS

10/01/2011

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Bliss World, LLC
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Think that formula is protein-free?  Think again.  Manufacturers have taken to loading hidden proteins into all of their formulas.  The question to ask is why?  No woman's hair needs continuous protein.  Many ladies don't know if they are coming or going when it comes to protein.  One look at my HIDDEN PROTEIN LIST has revealed a world of lurking proteins to many a lady.  If your hair loves protein you have nothing to worry about.  However, if you are protein sensitive like Tressbuzz you know that even the lightest vegetable proteins can turn your strands into a hard, dry mess.  Another confusing aspect of this protein phenomenon is that many of the product names specifically reference "moisture."  V05 Moisture Milks?  Soy Protein.  Nexxus Ultimate Moisturizing?  Keratin, Wheat AND Soy proteins.  Hello Hydration?  Coconut milk.  Getting the picture?  If you are doing everything right but your hair is still hard, brittle and breaking you might very well be protein sensitive.  A quick check of your products' labels will tell you everything you need to know.  Thankfully there are some TRULY protein-free formulas out there although they are becoming rare.  Although I can't list every protein-free formula out there below is a shortlist of excellent protein-free conditioners: 
Suave Almond & Shea Butter
Tresemme Naturals Moisturizing
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Daily Deep Conditioner
Suave Naturals
L'Oreal Vive Pro Hydra Gloss
Dove Go Fresh
Pantene Dry to Moisturized
Herbal Essences Self Targeting
Keracare Moisturizing

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STRENGTHENING ALTERNATIVES

09/01/2011

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If you are protein-sensitive but your hair is lacking in strength you have other options!  Protein is not the only strengthening show in town.  Tannins have a similar strengthening effect on hair.  Tannins are astringent compounds that bind to proteins, amino acids and alkaloids - helping to regulate growth and deterioration.   As with any strengthening treatment, you still have to maintain your moisture balance so follow up any such treatment with a moisturizing deep conditioner.  Many teas and plants contain tannins.  Black teas are loaded with strengthening tannins.  For this treatment steep 1/4 cup organic black tea in 2 cups hot water overnight.  Use it as a rinse just before applying a moisturizing deep conditioner.  Henna is also loaded with tannins.  Try a paste of water and colorless henna, or Cassia Obovata, applied to hair for 1 hour to strengthen.  Follow with a moisturizing deep conditioner.  Cassia can be obtained at Indian markets or online.  Pantene has a product line with Cassia called Nature Fusion.
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CERAMIDES

08/01/2011

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You might  be asking 'what are ceramides and what can they do for my hair?'  Ceramides are a family of lipid or fat molecules that reside in the cell membranes of a substance.  The components of ceramides are aminos and fatty acids.  Scientists have found that one of the functions of ceramides with regard to hair is as a "glue" of sorts - keeping the scales that form the hair's cuticle attached and in place.  They also found that in damaged hair these important lipids had actually disappeared.  Further, it has been proven that the addition of ceramides to the hair serves to fortify strands and prevent breakage.  Ceramides actually bind to the hollowed or weakened areas of the hair strand and inhibit further moisture and protein loss.  Most products on the market use a synthetic form of ceramide.  Some brands that have ceramide products are L'Oreal, Aubrey Organics, Optimum Care, Proclaim, Silicon Mix and Redken.  Two common synthetic ceramides are 2-oleamido-1 and 3-octadecanediol.  While these synthetic forms are equally as effective as natural forms, those looking to go as natural as possible will be pleased to know that ceramides are also present in some oils.  If you are in the market for length-retention it is highly recommended that you incorporate a ceramide product or oil into your regimen.  Some ways to do this include incorporating products that contain ceramides or adding a ceramide-containing oil to your regimen as a sealant or pre-poo.  Please note that although olive and coconut oils are not high in ceramides they both have been clinically proven to help stop protein loss in the cortex - so these particular oils have beneficial properties that are similar to ceramides.  Oils containing ceramides:
Walnut Oil
Rice Oil
Almond Oil
Wheat Germ Oil
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BRAZILIAN KERATIN

07/01/2011

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I am constantly asked to weigh in on the Brazilian Keratin Mania that has swept the hair care nation.  I am a libertarian when it comes to hair care.  If it works for you then do it!  Salon-based keratin treatments must be entered into with caution however.  Many of these treatments contain the carcinogen formaldahyde.  This is being breathed into the lungs during the process and is being heat-adhered to the hair.  A hot blow dry and 450 degree flat iron are requirements - it cannot be done without them - so if heat damage is not your thing think twice.  Additionally the base polymers used to bond the keratin to the hair are actually plastics so strands are subject to dehydration as moisture and nutrients cannot penetrate to the cortex while these substances are bonded to the hair.  This is why it has to be done over and over again to get that just-stepped-out-of-the-salon effect.  Many Youtubers who have had it done end up doing a negative update video a month or two after the treatment.  One diva raved about it in a video then in her very next video was in box braids.  Not so much?  Home kits are a much safer way to go.  Brands like Liquid Keratin and Organix don't contain formaldahyde and don't bond to the hair for as long.  As with any new process du jour do your homework and know your stuff when entering the world of Brazilian keratin. 
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HIDDEN PROTEINS

02/19/2011

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One of the most frequent questions I get from women is "what are hidden proteins?"  We all know protein overload can lead to brittle, hard, breaking hair.  If you are protein sensitive you KNOW it with a capital "K".  If you are doing everything right but are still experiencing hard, brittle hair you will want to check your shampoos, conditioners, leave-ins and stylers for hidden proteins, as excess use can lead to overload - something that is hard to recover from.  Many of the proteins in products will actually say protein, however here is a list you may not know about:
keratin
collagen
gelatin
placenta
aloe vera (whole not juice)
milk
lactase
lactis
soy
soy milk
coconut solids/cream/milk
egg solids
ovum
nut solids/milks
grain solids (buckwheat, corn, amaranth, rice, etc....)
corn silk (extract)
hydrolized silk
silk amino acid
silk extract
silk powder
silk solids
wheat germ
wheat
avocado
yogurt solids
mayonnaise
whey
algae
kelp
seaweed
Regarding the above list, please note that oils derived from these items (nut oils, grain oils, etc.) have no (or negligable) protein as proteins do not survive the rigorous oil pressing process.  Also note that some people are so protein sensitive that protein building blocks -  aminos, peptides, etc. - will harden their hair.  So keep an eye on your products' ingredient lists and get serious about monitoring your protein/moisture balance!
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