Picture
Copyright MMXI, DE Taylor.  All Rights Reserved.
The PH of a substance refers to the number of hydrogen ions it has. The scale ranges from 1-14, with 7 being neutral.  The extremes of the scale are acidic (0 – 6.9) or alkaline (7.1-14). Why is PH relevant to hair care you ask?  It is relevant because one of the characteristics of ethnic hair is a raised cuticle which coupled with a coiled structure lends a frizzed appearance.  One of the hallmarks of acidity is its ability to cause the hair's cuticle to contract or lay down so substances with mild to moderate acidity are often desirable in our products.  Black hair that is "PH balanced" has a smoothed cuticle which gives the hair a shiny smooth appearance.  Black hair that is not balanced will have a raised cuticle which lends a rough, dull, frizzed appearance.  Most shampoos and conditioners for ethnic hair are within the 3.5-5.5 range.  An example of an extreme acidic treatment would be something like an apple cider vinegar rinse.  Extreme acidity will cause the cuticle to contract or close and enhance smoothness and shine.  As you can imagine you would not want your cuticle to be completely contracted permanently because this could slow aborption of nutrients and moisture, however for periodic clarification and shine this procedure is desirable.  Conversely, for Caucasian hair which can be thin, flat and lifeless a slightly higher alkaline content can be effective in raising the cuticle and giving the hair a more volumized look.  As a general rule of thumb, neutrality to moderate acidity is desirable for Black hair.   Average water is a 7 which is exactly neutral.  This makes water an excellent equalizer and very desirable as an overall moisturizer as it has no extreme effect on the cuticle and thus penetrates the hair shaft easily.

 
 
Picture
Copyright MMXI, DE Taylor.  All Rights Reserved.
When Tressbuzz tells women that she generally as a rule does not use styling products she is met with shock and disbelief.  What?  No gel, no hairspray, no wrap foam, no mousse, no setting lotion?  No, no, no, no and no.  You see, one day about a year ago I went to the bathroom to take down my overnight set.  I had used wrap foam.  As I tried to comb through the hair I realized that many of the hairs were either knotted or glued together and breaking.  I turned the product over and saw the same ingredient used in common ADHESIVE.  Later, at the Walmart looking for an alternative I realized that almost every styling product was an amalgamation of glues and "bad alcohol."  I thought back over the years and realized that virtually every styling product I had ever used led to buildup, and gunky dried out tresses with single and double strand knots.  Why was I gluing my hair together?  Was it really worth the waxy buildup and knots?  No.   I have discovered that overnight sets do not even need assistance.  They hold all day on their own.  If there ever is a necessity for "hold" aloe vera or flax gel work wonderfully and rosewater with grapeseed oil makes an amazing setting lotion.  I decided that day to save myself the money and never looked back.  Now I am a total convert to free flowing, light airy strands!